Tips and Tricks from my readers
questions
I spent some time in the Far East in
the mid sixties ending up in Singapore. The bazaars were full of
low relief carved chests and tables, etc made out of this stuff.
Many Europeans sent it back to their temperate climates along with rose
wood and camphor wood pieces only to have it distort and produce shakes
if they were not too careful.
I remember it as pronounced as 'pah-duh-uck' although I've never been
known for good pronunciation (or spelling).
What intrigued me most at that time was the 'rosewood' looked almost
black as ebony and the 'padauk' appeared the colour of 'roses'. I'm sure
many Europeans got it mixed up. It was many years later that I found out
that rosewood was named because of its rose 'smell' and not it's colour
that got it's name.
Sources (of paduak) were Andaman Islands, India and Burma, a similar
species is found in the Philippines which is apparently called 'narrar',
so my reference book tells me. top
(in USA common nails are
identified by the pennyweight)
British
pennyworth ~ penn'orth noun. A pennyworth or penn'orth of something is as
much as can be bought for a penny. "I'd like a pennyworth of humbugs,
please."
FIGURATIVE "It won't make a pennyworth of difference (=It will make no
difference) to me."
( Cambridge International Dictionary of English )
Penny
Pen"ny (?), a. [Perh. a corruption of pun, for pound.] Denoting
pound weight for one thousand; -- used in combination, with respect to
nails; as, tenpenny nails, nails of which one thousand weight ten
pounds.
top
Hi
I would like to know what the marks on tape measures are that starts at
19.187 and is equally spaced marks on the rest of the tape Could you
please help me. Thanks Brad
Brad,
They are an aid to the setting out of joists or
studs using the 'centre line' system.
You may also find a mark or highlight at 16 inch
divisions. This gives you 6 divisions with studs centred at 16 inches on an 8 ft
length. In English Building regulations, joist centres are at 400,
450 and 600 mm centres (16, 18 and 24 inches). The amount depends
on the span and the cross section of the joist.
An imperial sheet of board was 8 foot by 4 foot
that is 96 x 48 inches. (2400 x 1200 in metric) If you divide 5 studs
down the long side (96 inches or 2400 mm) it would give you
centres of 19.2 inches (490 mm) which is an alternative and economical
arrangement.
But please realise that these are 'centre
markings' and the stud, beam or joist, etc. is 'centred' on these
divisions making the need to take the width, or thickness redundant.
When you adopt the 'centre line' system of setting out you wont ever use
the laborious method of including the stud or joists measurement in
account again in your calculations.
Geoff
Other info found or sent in by readers:
Standard Lufkin and other high quality measuring tapes make it easy
to lay out studs and trusses. Stud centers are indicated every 16"
and truss centers are shown every 19.2". This allows for the standard
layout of six studs or five trusses per 8-foot section.
top
I was searching for fun tricks with a tape measure when I came
across several questions related to the black diamond marks on a
tape measure spaced at 19.2. We use this layout for post and beam
floor system. the beams are 4x6 and a 19.2 layout is sufficient for
structural as well as allowing for a staggered placement of decking.
Hope this answers some questions.
Peter Magel, Carpenter
(question regarding the seasoning of
round logs for cabins)
I have done quite a bit of home
seasoning but only on a small scale for woodturning.
It really is not an exact science and you must continuously check the
progress. Be prepared to loose quite a bit of the timber due to
unexpected splits and shakes. (how much commercial timber have you
bought that is perfectly seasoned?) Note that Air drying is quoted as
'unreliable' But this was the only way our forefathers had. I used the
process to get it down to about 20 - 25% MC and then stacked it in my
workshop to complete. I've known some stack such timbers in their roof
trusses to finish off for internal use.
You will need to build a stack that is off the ground and has a good
overhead cover with plenty of overhang to get out of the extremities of
the weather yet allow good ventilation.
You must first convert the tree/timber/sticks into manageable
boards/lengths, etc and leave a good allowance for later preparation.
You must remove the bark and seal the ends and other knots, (reduce air
getting in/moisture getting out too quickly) etc with a sealer such as
paraffin wax. For long boards you must give good support by the use of
'stickers' at least every 24 inches (depends of course on thickness of
boards) or otherwise they will bow. It will be quite a long process,
about one year for every inch thickness of board. See my page http://www.geoffswoodwork.co.uk/seasoning.htm
and there is another part
page on conversions.
I would treat any useable timber as an achievement... I am sorry to
sound a bit pessimistic but I have lost a lot of nice wood due to
unexpected results. But as a wood turner I only wanted small logs to
produce a creditable product. The main problem is preventing the timber
drying out too quick especially in a long hot summer. You need to
protect the stack from inclement weather and direct sunlight. A good
ventilation through the stack is essential.
In my notes I refer to the 'oven method' of determining moisture content
(MC) but it is far easier to use a moisture meter. However they
are not as accurate as the 'oven-method'.
Another way (for smaller jobs):
I discovered long ago that timber in the round, i.e. logs will split in
the drying out process. As you say a massive single crack or a nice star
shake.
The best I've done is getting the log at least in half with iron wedges
and leaving the bark on. I reckon it needs to dry inside out. Leaving
the bark on slow downs the rapid drying of the sapwood. If you
don't split it, it cant dry out or at least it will be very slow. And
that will probably be your answer. I know of turners who cut up 'small'
branches of up to three inches wide and they have a net hanging in the
roof of their workshops where they store this stuff. They then forget
about it for a year or so and then take their pickings for small
turnings. Those that haven't split too badly. There usually some good
pickings and it is all a bonus - trimmings from a trunk that otherwise
would have been burnt.
top
P
E G. Polyethylene Glycol . You mix this up in a large trough and
soak the timber in it and it seals and preserves it up. I recall that
when they raised Henry the VIII's flag ship the 'Mary Rose' having been
submerged for 500 odd years (?) the archaeologist soaked the timbers in
this stuff to preserve the hull and stop her splitting when dried out.
It got very popular amongst wood turners who made large bowls. It is
quite common to have this problem of splitting bowls just as you are
getting to the right diameter, especially large salad bowls.
I don't know how much you would need for a job like you propose I
suggest you ask the supplier. I've used the Craft Supplies (UK) in the past -
http://www.craft-supplies.co.uk
I do hope this helps.
I am quite sure that PEG is not the right route for your logs. Somewhat
over the top. Look up at the trusses in old buildings. They certainly have their
share of splits and shakes. You must expect some and some will be a bit more than others.
When you see work in the round there are always some shakes and it adds
to the value of this kind of work. Remember the best is always selected.
You don't see the failures.
top
Problems with sticks of course is that
you will probably want to keep on the bark for decorative purposes. Now
I have never seasoned sticks but they must be straight and kept straight
or even bent and kept bent depending what you want from them.
Take account of all the above tips and I would leave a one inch thick
stick again at least six months outside and six months inside. They must
be well supported or their weight will bow themselves. Up in the roof of
an insulated warm garage, shed or your workshop would be great. Test
them regularly by having at least one sacrificial stick to test using
the method on my web page but I would prefer to use a purpose made
moisture meter. They are not so expensive nowadays especially if you are in
the business of seasoning a lot of sticks.
Don't take (all) my word on the subject. Trawl for more information.
They use to do a lot of stick carving in the Woodworker Magazines.
Search the Internet for specialist sites. top
I am planning to make some interior
window plantation style shutters. The windows are wide (82") and I
estimate it will take 6 hinged panels in total to make it work. I would
like to know what is the most lightweight wood (or wood substitute) I
could make them from, to minimise the stress on the hinges. I want to
leave them unpainted, so a reasonable looking product (i.e. not MDF!) is
important. Any advice would be much appreciated. Vanessa Goss
Vanessa, If you want a softwood I would use whitewood. If you want a
hardwood for lightness I would use Red Meranti or Lauan. Both are
normally available in construction timber suppliers. You need to have
well honed tools working these woods. And they are not 'forgiving' if
you are not too careful. Best wishes Geoff.
Geoff,
Is the whitewood you referred to the same thing that the Americans call
bass wood (from the linden tree) ? Is whitewood also unforgiving, or
were you just referring to red meranti and lauan? Vanessa
Vanessa,
No problem.
No I was not referring to Basswood or Linden, I don't have any
experience of them.
Whitewood is really a generic group the English refer to the Spruce type
timbers in the family Piceas. I.e.. Sitka spruce - Picea sitchensis or
Picea abies. It is a, dare I say, an inferior timber used a lot for
architraves and skirtings. It is rather 'woolly' grained and is perhaps
about 10% cheaper than the Redwoods (Pinus sylvestris). It is used in
the pine furniture trade and is often referred as 'knotty' pine. I also
say that it is unforgiving. But worked well you will get a nice result.
I recommended it because it is lighter (for your use) than the standard
softwood used in England for better quality joinery of the Redwood and
in particular Baltic or Russian.
If you don't like whitewood, try Hemlock (Tsuga) may suit you and is
slightly less dense. It handles somewhat better but is liable to split
if not pre-drilled. And on reflection Poplar or Aspen (Populus) is a
another lighter weighted hardwood.
You see denser (and thus heavier) timbers are generally easier to work
and machine and vice versus.
Keep the profiles slim as much as you dare but well made joints. The
actual louvers don't need to be thicker that 6 - 8 mm. You are building
for privacy rather than for security (I suppose). Softwoods in general
do need to have a beefier profile than hardwoods for the joints to stay
together.
On reflection, for a lightweight hardwood I would go for Red Meranti.
But make sure it is the
red variety some meranti looks rather pale and balsa like. Stain it
medium mahogany to give it some colour and interest. Make sure you don't
get too much glue around the joint line otherwise the stain and varnish
don't penetrate and it looks awful.
Best wishes, Geoff top
Making
your own Router Table
They are really simpler than you
realise. I was unsatisfied with my router table for some time and was
concerned about the kits that were on sale so I bought a complete table
set-up. It was only when I saw this set up that I realised that I could
have saved myself a lot of money by buying the bits of kit you see on
sale. There are only 3 items you need. A sound table board such as 20 mm
mdf. A device for holding securely the inverted router through a cut
out. And finally a fence of some form to provide adjustment and
guidance. PLUS some form of guarding; I use a vertical and horizontal
finger boards. These provide protection and guidance.
The holding device needs to allow you to adjust and change the cutters
without too much trouble. Some that you can buy include an adjustable
aperture for the differing router diameters. The fence can be a simple
batten with a 'L' shaped base and fixed with a single screw and a cramp
the other end. There are of course some real fancy ones on sale. They
are simple to fit to your base with screws or pins. Have a look at the
catalogues such as Axminster Power Tools etc. Then all you need is a
firm table top or cabinet to fix your base to. Having a hinged top is
convenient for changing cutters. top
Rafter
lengths and angles
Hello! Do you know where can I find
"Rafter`s length cutting table" used for roofing. I am not
sure if it is right title? Also, what are the best methods to get square
wall layout? Regards Mike.
Mike, I
have a little book Published by Stobart Davies Hertford. 'The Carpenters
Metric Roofing Ready Reckoner by W.E. Gray ISBN 0-85442-004-5.
Another is Roofing Ready
Reckoner by Ralph Goss published by Blackwell Scientific Ltd ISBN
06232021969.
Regarding squaring a wall. I'm not a builder
but for carpentry we make up a large wooden square using the 3:4:5 rule,
i.e.. if the sides are in those proportions it is a perfect right angle.
All this is well covered in
this book: The Arnold Manual of First & Second Fixing Carpentry by
Les Goring - Arnold- ISBN 0 340 61423 4. Hope this helps.
Geoff. top
TV Stand
Dear Sir,
I'm a student in Maes Garmon school. I would like some help in my
course work, I have to do a page which includes some professional help.
I was wondering which wood should I use and which joint should I use to
make a TV stand strong enough and big enough to hold a 17" TV, a
video player and a games console.
I would appreciate your help. Yours Faithfully. Steven
Davies.
Steven,
first
of all you want to look at the Stanley sheets on the Basic
techniques page on my web site and in particular these sheets; Frame
construction - t & x joints, Carcase construction - t & x
joints and the L joints sheet. You can print these off.
Then
have a look at these pages from my Foundation pages; Project ~ a
basic cabinet.
Look
and assess this type of construction. You probably need a double
bay and fit a plinth to the bottom to raise it off the ground and a
nice top.
Also
look at the page Carcase construction and see the three main ways of
making a cabinet. It may or may not need a door. See
frames. The door may be internal (flush) or external like a
kitchen cupboard. Regarding the timber, I would use a nice
hardwood to match the existing colour and style of the existing room
furniture. It does not need to be solid, natural timber.
You could select faced plywood, mdf or blockboard with hardwood edges.
You
should also find the design and planning pages useful. Best
wishes, Geoff. top
Saw nib.
What
is the "nib" on the top front of some of the hand saws for?
I
have seen various explanations over the years and no one claims to
know the perfect answer. I thought that I had it once but it
went out of my memory and I cant for the life remember (if ever I did
know). Some of the reasons I've heard are: It was a
spur for cutting nails in boards. It was once a 'hook'
that an apprentice fixed a cord to pull the saw to help his master saw
( similar to the old pictures of apprentices pulling the large
planes). It was a pattern that the teeth were
filed to. It was purely a decorative feature to show quality.
Please
let me know if you've heard of any more.
Robert
C. Freeman, Toronto, Canada suggests: You have just cut a groove
with your saw. You reverse the saw and use the nib to draw
any remaining sawdust from the groove.
top
Re-varnishing -
restoration
Not being
an expert in wood, or French polishing I wonder if you can give me a few
pointers? I
am presently trying to restore a suite of bedroom furniture that I
inherited from my Mum. It
seems to be veneered with a light nicely patterned wood but has seen a few
"spills", as you may glean from the attached photo. I
have partly started one piece by removing the old lacquer etc, by gentle
sanding, and have rubbed in 2 coats of Coloron liquid wax in accordance
with the instructions. Although
the results aren't too bad, I'm now wondering, how I get the same
"varnished/lacquered" finish as it originally had, but I'm
beginning to think that you may not be able to varnish over a liquid wax
finish! What
should I do to improve the piece I have already started, and what should I
have done in the first place, if I got this wrong? Your
ideas would be appreciated? and what exactly does French polishing mean,
or entail, as now I've retired I think I might like to take this up as a
hobby - I find it quite relaxing. Kind
Regards, Mike.
Mike,
the original finish was probably a sprayed on hard lacquer or
cellulose. Sanding such finishes back especially if
it is veneered is hard and may be hit and miss. Unless you
get it all off you will get areas of different permeability and
probably get an uneven penetration of the wax. Although
the veneer would cause me concern of lifting I would use a good
chemical stripper such as Rustins Strypit or some other recommended by
your local stockist.
Using
a remover has to be very careful. You will find that when you
paint it on it just sits there and then gradually softens the varnish
down to a certain level there is a point when it is flexible and then
it soon passes and quickly hardens so you have to start the process
again. The secret is to judge them moment when the old varnish
becomes fluid and then use a flat scraper to peel it off.
You may have to apply another coat to get all of it off. Wire wool may
be used in the corners - with care - don't get under the
veneers. Do not soak the surface with the remover just paint
enough for it to do its business. Just go bit by bit and
don't attempt to strip off too much on one session.
When
all is off wipe over with turpentine (or other recommended solvent)
and then sand with a grit of about 120 to 180. Again be careful of the
veneer and the direction of grain. Don't use an electric sander
either, we are talking hand sanding using a cork block on the flat
areas. Wire Wool grade 0000 or equivalent helps in the corners.
Regarding
finish, and I'm not an 'expert' either. I only do enough
for myself or otherwise I send it away to be done by a polisher.
There
is nothing wrong with four coats of polyurethane. Each coat cut
back before the next coat. I prefer a vinyl or matte finish
myself. You can always wax and buff it up
after.
Your
finish may need more coats to get a shine. I'm not
familiar with liquid wax so I don't know what to expect.
You can get some soft hand brushes to buff up wax polishes and I have
even seen a round soft brush that you can put in your electric
drill. You can even use those polishing mops they sell for
polishing cars!
Personally, I would like to give the bare wood a light stain to
even up the colour and grain, Cut back a little again and then
give a varnish body up coat before applying wax. You wont get
such a soak in and that may improve your finish.
Regarding
varnishing over wax: no I'm sorry it wont take. You need
to start with a good key and wax would certainly not
do. If you want to revert back to varnish you will
have to strip back.
While
you do have the wax finish though, try playing a hair dryer or hot
air gun on a low setting over the wax, allow it to soften a bit and
then re-harden. Sometimes this evens out wax finishes
and where it is allowed to pool and harden you may get an acceptable
shine. Take care of toxic and inflammable fumes in the
usual way (plenty ventilation and no naked lights). You
can get some surprisingly pleasing results although I have never
used the technique on liquid wax only the solid 'Briwax'
types. (bees wax plus carnauba basically)
Please
experiment on a unseen place first before committing to the front or
top faces!
French
polishing is pretty difficult to get a good job unless you've had a
lot of practise under an expert. It is a process of
applying numerous very thin coats of 'shellac' varnish on to the
surface and gradually getting a brilliant shine.
Unfortunately the finish is not very durable and does not live up to
modern usage.
There
are also some good oils that come up nice but again its not just
one or two coats.
I
hope this helps. Remember take your time, try it out and
see what happens - modify the approach if it does not seem to work
until you get the required result.
Best
wishes,
Geoff
top
Stanley
Tools
Hi Geoff
I found your site via Google.
I have inherited a set of planes from my father.
There are three which I have no idea how to assemble or use.
No's 50 which may be for tongued and groove work,
71 which looks like a spoke shave
78 which has a bull nose and a guide rail similar to No 50.
I gather from my search of the internet that there are some highly irate ex customers of Stanley. Would I be correct in surmising that Stanley was a
British company bought out by the Americans thus no longer of the quality it once had?
They obviously do not maintain an exhaustive catalogue.
Would you direct me to information on the above tools?
Regards, Des
Des,
I believe that Stanley is an American company and the UK works is a part of their organisation.
The Stanley web site is at http://www.stanleyworks.com/
They seem to have cut back a lot in these latter years and many of the older tools have disappeared. The DIY market and the portable power tool sales caused much of the precision hand tool demise. Modern usage seeming to prefer for quick fix techniques. The craftsmen tools obviously have far less sales and consequently the prices go up and again until they unaffordable and dropped from the range.
I have managed to identify your tools. I have a Stanley 50 Plough plane but my Rebate and Fillister Plane (your No 78) is the Record Tools version which is almost identical and numbered 778. I note that the Record 778 has a double arm fence whereas the Stanley 78 has a single arm fence. There may also be differences in the feed mechanism - even with Stanley - they changed from a positive screw feed to a lever mechanism before they dropped it for a completely new design - which they have now discontinued.
The No 71 is a Hand Router, a very useful tool. There was
also a No 71 spokeshave and was specialised for 'rabbet work'. Although I
haven't seen it I would presume that the sides are exposed similar to a bench rebate plate to allow the cutting and trimming of rebates. It seems to have been dropped long ago.
I haven't heard of any irate customers in particular but I thought that the American market highly rated Stanley.
Quality has gone down but only in that there is now predominant use of plastic, especially for handles. Record Tools have kept their
'rosewood' finished handles on their Bench Planes and seem somewhat heavier. The American market do not seem to rate Record Tools as highly as
Stanley though. They have I am led to believe, been taken over by a USA company earlier this year.
I use and am quite happy with both
manufacturers - whichever is available although some tools are
preferable to others and vice versus. My Stanley planes do have
'rosewood' handles. I am nearly antique too!
I do hope this is of help and you can get your tools back in use. There are a lot of web sites selling antique Stanley Tools. Find them using Google.com
I am sending you a pdf format copy of my manuals for the planes, The Record manual should give you the information you may need for the No 78, it is very similar. I also enclose an entry for the No 71 from an old Stanley catalogue.
Best Wishes,
Geoff
top
Hubble,
R (Richard),
Kingston
College
Courses. Hi, I am trying to locate the best
woodworking course to attend on a part time (evening) basis. I already
have knowledge of basic techniques through school and practical
application. Through my own experience I have constructed radiator
cabinets, shelving units and a few other items of furniture, as well as
construction in renovating my own and friends house's including kitchen
worktops, cladding, false ceilings, skirting, door hanging etc.
I am looking for a course that will allow me to understand how to use
bigger machinery like spindle moulders, panel saws etc, better
techniques for furniture construction and knowledge of wood as a
material and it's applications.
Some of the courses I have looked at look a little basic and others have
stipulated entry requirements. Can you recommend anything. I do not mind
paying tuition fees if private colleges offer a better course.
Many thanks
14 August 2003
Richard,
If you go to http://www.hotcourses.com/ you can search for a course in
your area. Of course check your local college and see what they offer.
Many colleges do evening courses and it isn't always necessary to have
industrial experience. Go for a 'Progression' or other non NVQ'S course
that is available. A relevant course is Hand Crafted Furniture making
and colleges offer upholstery as well as cabinet making. Do not take the
'Site Practice' units of Carpentry & Joinery but the units of 'Bench
Joinery' may suit you because they make doors, windows, kitchen units
etc. They may not offer wood machinery although it is possible to 'bolt'
it on.
If however you can get a C&G 6955 Progression Award in Hand crafted
cabinet making that would suit all your bench and machinery needs.
But anyhow, buy and read some good books. See my recommendations. Get
your basic set of tools and a bench space in your garage and keep on
making things and improving your techniques and expertise. Examine what
you have made and try to do better each time and use more advanced
techniques. It is surprising what you can do with basic tools. I've had
them all but I have sold off many tools and machines I didn't really
need. You can do anything if you really want to!
If you have any more questions please feel free to ask.
Best wishes.
Geoff top
Hi Geoff,
I am a keen
amateur wood worker and have recently purchased a router. Unfortunately
I am sure I am doing things wrong. I tend to end up with uneven finishes
or gouges in the wood. I am sure it is because I am using
the tool wrong.
Can you provide any fact sheets or other information regarding the use
of a router including the different capabilities of the different bits?
Shaun
Wilkins
Shaun,
First rule is the direction of
cutting. You must always feed the cutter into the material
against the rotation of the cutter.
Conventionally that is on the outside of a frame; anti-clockwise and on
the inside of a frame; clockwise. The incorrect and opposite
to this is what is called a 'climbing cut' and unless the router
and the board is held robustly the cutter will snatch out of control.
(I have modified my explanation of
this to clear up any confusion)
When
making a groove or a single run in the middle of a board you may cut in
either direction
but subsequent widening runs must obey the above rule or otherwise the
machine will again 'snatch'.
When using an inverted router under
a table, etc. and with a fence fitted you should again feed against the
cutter direction. Avoid placing the work between the fence and the
cutter unless you provide guarding to the cutter. Realise in this
situation that you should feed in the opposite direction so that you
obey the rule 'feed against the direction of the cutter'.
This is no different than the direction of cut when
we cut wood on the circular saw or planing machine. Think about it
and think about what would happen if you attempted to feed the saw or
planer from the wrong direction? Yet I've seen many router
operators attempt to feed the wrong way on the router and wonder what
the problem was! (
To set the record right, it is possible to machine wood fed in the
opposite direction (i.e. climbing cut) and there are some arguments for it. But, only
when the timber is mechanically restrained and mechanically fed in a
proper robust
and guarded set up. Please don't attempt it)
Other tips
for safe and efficient use of the router:
Set your turret depth control so
that you make manageable cuts and carefully
use your plunge control.
Don't make too heavy a cut especially where there are knots, wild or cross grain.
Always
go across the grain first and then along it.
Sometimes you cannot avoid cutting against the grain
direction, then you must take light
cuts holding the router or material firmly because the wood wont like it.
A
damaged knot on the edge will affect the straight edge of a moulding
unless you use the fence.
In
all cases a final light shallow cut is best for the final cut.
Keep
the router moving. A slow rate will 'burn' the wood
especially the hard woods and in particular beech.
Let the router work hard but listen to the motor and do not move so
quick it slows or changes pitch too much.
If
you have speed control it is fast for narrow cutters and slow for wide
cutters.
Use
clean, sharp cutters. Obviously nowadays TCT edges - buy at least
double cutters and for profiling cutters with ball races avoiding
'solid' 'followers'.
Clean your cutters often.
They will work better.
If you must sharpen the cutters
yourself only touch up the flat backs and never try to hone the
profile. If the edges get nicked send them away for
sharpening together with its matched pair. It will be cheaper
than buying new.
Trend
provide information on their web site and they provide a downloadable
free booklet Routing
- A Guide to Getting Started which is well worth
obtaining. Another at the
Wealdon Tools site and Ron Fox's tips. There are other leaflets available about their
products available to get you aware of the range and scope of routing.
To
sum up; sharp cutter, light cuts, against the cutter
direction, across grain first then long grain, finally a light quick
finishing cut. Don't labour the feed or motor. Listen
to the pitch of the motor, feel the vibrations, watch the cutting
action, smell the resin. ~ Any changes; stop and look.
Finally:
Always
wear protective glasses when routing. A wood chip can hurt the eyes and
worse. Wear a dust mask especially when
machining brown woods and compositives.
(edited text on 21st November 2004 to improve explanation of the
'climbing cut')
top
Doweling
Subject: Woodwork question :dowels
I enjoyed viewing your woodworking
site. I am just getting started on serious woodworking
projects and was wondering if you have tips for effectively drilling
dowel holes so that the assembled project pieces all line up squarely.
Thanks, Mark
Mark,
There are many expensive doweling
jigs, etc. on the market with fancy slides and fences to line up the
boards. My advice is leave them well alone because there are cheaper more
effective aids.
I use dowel (lip & spur) drills
and dowel centre points. 
All you do is mark out a centre line
(centre of the jointing edge) space out the hole positions and mark with a
bradawl. Then using a bench drill or drill support and bore the first
set of holes approx half the length of the dowel peg.
 Insert
the dowel centres, line up the boards using at least the bench as a
reference to say the front edge so that the pins transfer the
position of its mating hole. Carefully drill the meeting hole to
the required depth.
You can buy these from most good tool
dealers under the name of 'Wolf craft'. I get mine from APTC (Axminster).
They come in 6, 8, 10 and maybe 12 mm increments and you use a fluted
dowel produced by the same supplier. It is wise to 'chamfer' the two
dowel holes to help clean up the meeting
surfaces and provide a recess for any slight excesses of glue to go.
It is a very old idea which used
veneer pins with the heads nipped off with the pincers, to do the same
job.
Hope this helps,
Best wishes,
Geoff
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