Geoff's Woodwork for
Students of Woodwork
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Setting out Dovetails (General) 2.
Pencil gauge the parallel edge lines shown at 'b'.
The distance from the edge is determined by the jointing member,
the thickness of the 'pin' and whether it is required to mask the
meeting of a rebate or groove, etc. 3. Decide the number tails. Using a diagonal rule c - c to divide up distance between lines at 'b' and the top. The angle is determined by attempting to place a factor between the lines that may be easily divided by the number of tail/pin sets chosen. Draw lines parallel to the edges and towards the tails. You can now set out the tail and pin 'sets'.
4. Tail and pin sets are finally laid out between the divisions. Note: started with a pin and the last pin/tail is scribed to hide groove or rebate.
Transfer these markings to opposite corners and other draw sides by stacking carefully aligned together . Sequence of operations (see drawings) If it is a lidded box, the second down tail should be made wider and an approx 6 mm (1/4 inch) allowance added to saw and clean up the meeting edges. Draw around these parallel lines to show the division. (see my drawing here) It is best to treat the lid and box as two separate settings even though they are from the same board. Perhaps you could divide the lid into four parts ~ 2 parts for the middle tail and one quarter each for the pins top and bottom of lid. The box base may then be divided up as explained above. Fitting tops and bottoms also causes problems with the rebate or groove showing through the end grain. The tails and pins need to be aligned to hide the gaps or 'scribed' and 'cogged' as shown in the drawings here. Lapped dovetails are set out similar with an allowance of approx 3 to 6 mm's on the front face. See the article on dovetailed drawers. It is best to set all the tail/pin divisions on a piece of card or plywood, etc. as a template for future use. |
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Last uploaded 3rd September 2006 |
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