Geoff's Woodwork    

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Setting out (flush) Dovetail Drawers

Illustration is showing lapped dovetails to the front to provide a flush frontage with common dovetails at the back.    When made this way the front may be raised and field, 'cock-beaded' or other decorative feature.   'Laid-on' drawer fronts are used on cheaper mass construction and in this case common dovetails are used at the front also.   The 'laid-on' front is usually moulded and is screwed on from the back.   Laid- on drawers are  often used on kitchen and other 'production' manufactured cabinets.    Some quality flush fronts are made from solid material but a rebate is worked around to cut and fit the lapped dovetail.

The secret of successful setting out of the dovetail is the realization that the divisions of the sides containing the tails are in sets - pins and tails.   If you start with a pin you end with an extra pin and if you start with a tail you end with an extra tail.   The start and end pins are usually called 'half pins'.   Both start pins and tails have rather misshaped outlines  especially the tails where they located at the back. (square at bottom rear shown above)   The side of the pin or tail where it meets the rebate or groove is normally straight (or square) to align with the feature.

 
The division is made by drawing a diagonal line across the part required to be divided at an angle so that it's length is a multiple of the number of sets required.   Divide this line into the number of sets and draw light parallel lines back to the ends for the tail/pins as shown.    'Mask' off the areas that require omitting from your plan and draw in the groove and any shaped areas.

You should have in mind the number of 'sets' you anticipate and a size of the pins and the tail. Remember that the pin is at least half the size of the tail and in drawers they are usually quite narrow.

Because there is a pin at the top and the bottom (see front at right) the 'extra' pin (at the bottom) is plotted first. This pin is positioned so that the tail immediately above it masks the groove or rebate.  (remember that it is omitted from the division)
It should be noted that the back common dovetail is arranged somewhat different and the top and bottom tails shaped to accommodate the top easing and the drawers bottom. I have labelled areas to omit as 'margins' and selected 10 mm as a convenient width. I have also used this as the pin width throughout although they could and often are narrower.    Mine are larger because I want to be able to get my smallest 6 mm chisel in.  

Cabinet sides are set out with similar lapped dovetails to allow a flush top.

This system does not prevent you from having decorative and different sized pin/tail combinations.   Just set out and keep them in 'sets'.  Perhaps just a little more pre-thought and planning.  You may well have to have a couple of attempts to get it right but it will be worthwhile and an exercise you may only have to do once!

Set out on a stiff piece of paper, card or ply, etc. using the actual wood sides and thickness to draw round to get the correct proportions.  Keep these for future use and you will soon have a full set of your favourite and common widths and sizes.

If you visit Alan Foust's site at  http://home.nj.rr.com/afoust/dovetails.html  you have access to more hints, tips and articles on dovetailing using hand techniques.

© Geoff Malthouse 3rd November 2003

Article on dealing with dovetail sides to hide grooves and rebates, etc.

Article on setting out dovetails in boxes and cabinets, etc.

Drawing of a dovetailed Lidded box.

Last uploaded  22nd August 2003